Hand Tools, Sewing Machines, and the Parachute Loft

Introduction

Riggers are taught that there are three things necessary to do a proper job: knowledge to do the work, the correct materials, and the right tools. The job cannot be done correctly without all three of these essentials. The right tools include various types of sewing machines, as well as a wide variety of specialized hand tools.

The importance of learning the names and nomenclature of rigging tools and equipment cannot be overemphasized. Just as learning the language of a foreign country allows an individual to live and operate efficiently within a society, learning the language of the rigger allows new riggers to operate and interact within their profession. Without the necessary vocabulary, a rigger is not able to work with other riggers and, more importantly, does not present a professional image to customers. For example, when shopping for tools or sewing machines for rigging, the same tool may have a different name when used by some other trade. Knowing the language of the rigger helps avoid confusion.

Hand Tools

A new senior rigger must acquire enough tools to pack and maintain the types of parachutes for which he or she is rated. In the course of training, the rigger candidate is exposed to various tools and individual rigging techniques. Some riggers adhere to a minimalist philosophy and use as few tools as necessary. This may initially consist of a packing paddle, a pull-up cord, and a temporary locking pin, or just a pull-up cord, when packing main parachutes at the drop zone (DZ). With some types of parachutes, these may be all the tools needed to pack them. Other riggers develop techniques that utilize an array of tools designed to make the job easier or the end result neater. Some manufacturers have designed specialized tools to make their particular parachute easier to pack and maintain. Each rigger develops a suitable technique and then obtains the tools to support it.

In the past, the list of tools needed to pack and maintain military surplus parachutes was limited. Since most military parachutes were simply variants of the same canopy designs, common tools could be used across the board. In today’s high-tech world, some of these original tools are still used along with a number of newer designs. Many riggers and manufacturers design and build tools to fit a need, whether it is a new rig design or to make a job more productive. All riggers need to create a tool kit tailored for their particular situation. Figure 6-1 shows a commercially-available field rigger kitbag with tools. Although commercially-made kitbags are nice, they are expensive. Many riggers are “weekend” riggers, meaning they have a regular job during the week and work as a rigger on the weekend. This is typical of many skydiving riggers. Other riggers work full time in a loft or manufacturing environment.

Depending on their needs, riggers have different approaches toward their tools. The weekend rigger may travel to a DZ where the primary job is packing. Therefore, the tool kit is more basic as the purpose of this kit is not to take the whole loft to the DZ. The rigger who works in a full-time loft may have a more comprehensive tool kit, since it does not have to be hauled around. For the weekend rigger, there are several field rigger kitbags available commercially that hold a full assortment of tools. Many riggers design and build custom kitbags tailored around their individual requirements. Doing this is an excellent way to show off sewing skills, while at the same time creating a needed tool kit. There are also contractor tool bags made of a strong fabric with many pockets and compartments that work well with the type of tools a rigger uses. These bags are inexpensive and are available at hardware and home improvement stores.

To stock the tool kit, the rigger must determine what tools he needs. This depends on where the tools are used: in the field, DZ, or in the loft. Figure 6-2 shows a list of necessary tools that have been proven useful for today’s rigger. The list of tools is broken down into two different categories: Category 1, items 6-3 through 6-49 are mandatory tools; Category 2, items 6-50 through 6-56 are optional tools as most of them are for use in the loft.

Hand Tools Description

The tool belt is one of the most useful items the rigger can have. [Figure 6-3] Most tool belts are custom built by the riggers themselves and include a selection of tools that are frequently used around the loft. It always seems that the tool the rigger needs at a particular moment is at the other end of the packing table or on another sewing machine. The use of a tool belt makes riggers more efficient as they are not always looking for and having to retrieve their tools. A well-designed tool belt holds the following tools as a minimum: scissors, thread snips, 6-inch ruler, marking pencils and pens, butane cigarette lighter, seam ripper, Exacto® knife or scalpel, short packing fid, and finger-trapping needles. Other tools can be added according to the needs of the individual rigger. The following is a list of common tools and a brief description of how they are used.

Seam ripper—used in the sewing industry for “picking” stitches and ripping out seams. It has a pointed sharp end and an inside cutting edge for slicing through thread. [Figure 6-4] Hemostats or clamp—used by riggers for many clamping or retrieving operations. Two or three sizes should be obtained, as well as both straight and curved models. These tools can be found at hardware or auto parts stores. [Figure 6-5] Scalpel or Exacto® knife—used for delicate cutting of materials or thread. The Exacto® knife is preferred as the handles come in various sizes and with a wide selection of blades. [Figure 6-6]

Thread snips—used in the sewing industry for trimming or “snipping” thread when sewing. Handier and easier to use than scissors as the point is finer and allows more precise cutting of the thread. The ergonomic design takes some getting used to but proves superior in the long term. The stainless steel models are best, but some riggers prefer the plastic ones that have replaceable blades. [Figure 6-7]

Butane cigarette lighter—used for burning thread ends to seal the thread and keep stitches from raveling. It is also used for searing tapes, lines, and light webbing. One of these should be at each sewing machine or work site so the rigger does not have to leave the work to find one. [Figure 6-8]

6-inch stainless steel rule—used for making fine measurements during work. At a minimum, the scale should read to 1⁄16 inch and have a dual (English/metric) readout. Certain models have one rounded end. This model can be used for removing cut stitches from work by rubbing the rounded end against the thread thereby lifting it and making it easier to remove. [Figure 6-9] Fabric marking pencils and felt tip markers—used for marking webbing, tapes, and fabric. The Dixon #134s was used in the parachute industry for decades but is no longer available. The Dixon China Marker is now used by many riggers, as it contains no acid, and they come in 12 colors. Other types have been found to contain abrasives and compounds that, when used on canopy fabric, weaken the material. This particular brand of pencil has been found to have minimal effect on the fabric. Various colors, such as white, yellow, and red, are useful. Fine point felt tip markers are used for marking certain materials, such as Dacron® or Spectra® line. Black, red, and blue are most common. Felt tip pens, such as Sharpie® and Pilot® ultra- fine point permanent type, are used by many riggers. [Figure 6-10]

Scissors—used for cutting all types of materials used in the parachute industry. A high-quality scissor is lightweight, ergonomic, and comes in right-hand and left-hand models. Also, a short 5-inch barber shear is very sharp even when “used” and works very well in cutting Cypres loop cord and other line material commonly used in parachute rigging. [Figure 6-11] Finger-trapping needle—used for inserting suspension line into a “finger-trap” configuration. It is a heavy-duty threaded needle commonly called a “fid,” not to be confused with a “packing fid” or “paddle.” Plastic ones are available commercially, but the best ones are custom made from stainless steel or aluminum knitting needles. Cut to length, they are then drilled and tapped with screw threads in the flat end. The size 2, 6, and 8 needles are the most popular for the current line sizes. A blunt end needle is also used to finger trap Cypres loop cord. [Figure 6-12]

Finger-trapping wire—used to finger trap line too small to use a needle on. It is made from a wooden or plastic dowel with a wire loop made from safety wire. [Figure 6-13]

Packing paddle—used for dressing the pack of the parachute when packing. This tool is made from either wood or aluminum. The MIL-SPEC paddle has rounded ends and is 1 9⁄16" × 12" long and tapers in thickness from 1⁄4" to 3⁄16". The wooden commercial paddle is 1¾" × 15" long. [Figure 6-14A]

Packing fid—similar to the packing paddle, used also for dressing the parachute pack and tucking in flaps. The fid is approximately 1 9⁄16" × 8" long and tapers from 1⁄4" to 1⁄8". It is made from aluminum and was originally a United States Navy tool. Many riggers have both the fid and the paddle, but usually develop a preference for one or the other. [Figure 6-14B] Pull-up cords—used to “pull-up” the locking loop of parachute containers when closing and pinning them. They are made from lengths of suspension line: Cypres loop cord or Type-3 tape. [Figure 6-15]

Locking pull-up cord—used to lock the thickness of a twogrommet reserve deployment bag when packing the reserve canopy. It is made from 72 inches of red Type-3 suspension line and a size 94 Cordlok nylon fastener. It may be used on one-pin or two-pin reserve bags. [Figure 6-16]

Molar strap—used to control the folded reserve canopy prior to inserting it in the reserve free bag made from Type-8 webbing and a Camlok nylon buckle. The webbing should be at least 48" long and brightly colored to serve as a flag against leaving it on the canopy. [Figure 6-17]

Temporary locking pins (temp pins)—used to secure the pack in the temporarily closed condition prior to inserting the ripcord pins. All pins should have long, brightly-colored flags attached for recognition. [Figure 6-18]

Velcro® line protectors—used to cover the hook Velcro® on the line stow pocket of reserve free bags during the line stow process. They are made from pieces of 1" loop Velcro® with Type-3 tape flags attached. [Figure 6-19]

Closing plate—used for closing one-pin containers. Made from 1⁄4" aluminum with a “V” shaped notch for pulling the closing loop up through the pack flaps while compressing the container. [Figures 6-20]

T-bar positive leverage device—used to produce a “cranking” action to wind up the pull-up cord, thereby increasing leverage when closing the container. It must be used carefully as it is possible that too much force can be applied, damaging the container or creating too much force on the pin. [Figure 6-21 A and B]

T-handle bodkin—used primarily for closing container systems that have external pilot chutes, such as the Jump Shack Racer. A minimum of two is needed for the tool kit. [Figure 6-22] Pilot chute threading tool—used for threading the pull-up cord through a one-pin pilot chute. A .22 caliber gun-cleaning rod works well. The best is a United States military surplus M-16 cleaning rod. It is made from steel, as opposed to aluminum, and breaks down into sections and a package that is 8" long. [Figure 6-23]

Pilot chute locking rod and strap-locking rod and strap used to compress pilot chutes and used to hold the reserve pilot chute, such as an MA-1 compressed on the pilot chute launching disc. It is a tempered steel rod approximately 18" × 3⁄16". [Figure 6-24]

Line separator (suspension line holder)—used to keep the suspension lines of the canopy in order while pleating. It is made from aluminum with three “fingers” and two slots. [Figure 6-25]

Connector link separator tool—used to separate military style connector links, such as MS-22002 and MS-70118. The tool is Mil Spec PN 11-1-176. [Figure 6-26]

Shot bags—used to hold the canopy and suspension lines in place while folding. Packing weight made from nylon fabric and filled with lead shot for weight. These should be brightly colored or have a flag attached to prevent leaving in the parachute. Weight varies from 2–5 pounds according to needs. A minimum of four is needed. Making shot bags provides an excellent sewing project for the rigger candidate. [Figure 6-27] Seal press—used for compressing lead seals when sealing the parachute under Title 14 of the Code of Federal Regulations 14 (CFR) part 65, section 65.133. The die of the press has the rigger’s seal symbol engraved in the face for identifying the seal. [Figure 6-28]

Lead seals and seal thread— used with the seal press to seal the parachute, usually 3⁄8" diameter. The thread is used to seal the parachute in accordance with 14 CFR part 65, section 65.133. A cotton thread, usually ticket 20/4 with a tensile strength of 4.7 pounds; also used as safety tie where required. Due to the fact that seal thread is only available in 100-pound lots, some manufacturers buy it and then put it up on smaller spools and make it available to riggers. [Figure 6-29]

Rigger’s logbook—used by riggers to meet the recordkeeping requirements of 14 CFR part 65, section 65.131. [Figure 6-30]

Packing data card—used to fulfill the recordkeeping requirements of 14 CFR part 65, section 65.131(c) that is normally made of Ty-Vek® material and is kept with the parachute. Ty-Vek® is difficult to write on with a ball point pen. One pen that works very well is the “Pilot ultra-fine point NO XYLENE - permanent type SCA-UF.” This pen can be found at office supply stores, although you may have to order them. They come in black, red, and blue. [Figure 6-31] Note pad—used for recording miscellaneous information or making sketches when working on parachutes. [Figure 6-32] Rubber bands—used for stowing suspension lines, bridles, or static lines. Three sizes are common today. Besides the normal 2-inch size, there is a smaller 1-inch size for the newer microline and a larger one used for tandem parachutes. Tube Stoes® used in place of rubber bands are required by some manufacturers, such as Butler Parachute Systems, Inc. [Figure 6-33]

Hand tacking needles—variety of sizes of straight and curved needles used for general sewing are necessary for every tool kit. [Figure 6-34]

Straight and T pins—used when doing canopy patches to pin the fabric together. The T pins are used for heavier duty work, such as container repair. [Figure 6-35]

Navy end tab—used for assisting in hand tacking thick materials. This is a container end tab from a United States Navy seat pack modified with a “dimple.” The dimple allows the needle to be pushed through the material, and the holes in the tab allow gripping the needle to pull it through. [Figure 6-36] Waxed nylon “supertack”—used for hand tacking requirements because it has superior knot holding properties. It is a waxed, flat, braided nylon cord that serves as a modern replacement for 6-cord nylon. Typically 80 – 90 pounds tensile strength, a 50-pound version is also available. This cord is available in black and white. [Figure 6-37]

3-cord cotton thread–waxed—used for hand tacking and break tacking on the risers and connector links of emergency parachutes. Its tensile strength is 16 pounds. The color is usually natural. [Figure 6-38]

Tape measure—used for general measurement of items such as suspension lines and bridles. A good quality tape measure at least 25 feet long is necessary. A quality fabric tape measure is also necessary. If possible, get one with dual measurements (English/metric). [Figure 6-39]

Shoulder strap hook—packing assist device used to apply tension to the pull-up cord using upper-body strength thereby freeing both hands to pin the container. This strap can be built by the rigger. [Figure 6-40]

Pony clamps—used for clamping material to hold it as a third hand. Also used as a packing assistant when packing square reserves. These do come in handy, although not used by all riggers. [Figure 6-41]

6-inch adjustable wrench—used for tightening Rapide® links and other jobs. A good adjustable wrench serves in place of several different sized wrenches. A 4-inch adjustable wrench is very handy as it takes up less room in the rigger kit bag. [Figure 6-42]

Screwdriver–multi-tip—used for L-bar connector links and general use. A good quality screwdriver with interchangeable tips is the most versatile model. Good quality cannot be stressed enough. If the tip of the screwdriver does not fit the slot in the screw of a L-bar connector properly, it can slip out and can cause damage to the screw head or injury to the rigger. [Figure 6-43]

Needle-nose pliers—used for heavy-duty gripping and pulling, such as for needles in webbing. A small needle-nose plier is also handy for pulling thread after a seam ripper has been used. [Figure 6-44]

Cable cutters—used for cutting stainless steel cable and trimming the 3-ring release cable to length. A good quality cable cutter, such as the Felco™ model C7, cuts the cable cleanly. Electrician’s pliers or diagonal cutters flatten the ends of the wire unless they are of high quality and sharp. [Figure 6-45]

Ripstop roller—used for applying ripstop tape for canopy repairs. It removes air bubbles and wrinkles. A standard wallpaper roller works well. [Figure 6-46]

Beeswax—used for waxing 6-cord nylon or any regular thread for hand tacking. [Figure 6-47]

Spring scale and fabric testing clamps—used for measuring the ripcord pull force on reserve and emergency parachutes. With a minimum rating of 50 pounds, it is also used in conjunction with the fabric testing clamps to measure fabric strength on reserve canopies in accordance with Parachute Industry Association (PIA) TS-108. Some riggers do not use testing clamps as they can cause damage to good fabric, if not used properly. [Figure 6-48]

Hot knife element with cutting tip, basting tip, and stand— used for cutting and searing synthetic materials, such as nylon, Dacron®, and Spectra®. The basting tip is used for fusing canopy material in place prior to sewing during canopy repairs. The stand is necessary to keep the hot elements from causing a fire. A heavy-duty hot knife, although expensive, is a must have for any serious rigger. [Figure 6-49 A and B] Hot glue gun—used to replace staples and hand basting in harness work. This modern tool has changed harness repair and construction techniques. [Figure 6-50]

Tension board assembly with apex tiedown—used on the round packing table to apply tension to the canopy when packing. There are two models available. One is for military style L-bar connector links and another, smaller one for Rapide® style connector links. The straps should have a quick release feature to release tension easily. [Figure 6-51] Size “O” rolled rim spur grommet handset—used for doing container repairs. The “O” stainless steel model from

Stimpson Co., Inc. is the most useful grommet set because it has a replaceable die insert section, that wears out in time and can be replaced. It is also the highest quality. The stainless steel set works for both brass and stainless steel grommets. For the rigger who does not replace as many stainless grommets, the hand set from Lord and Hodge size “0” will also set stainless steel spur grommets, but does not last as long as the commercial handset. The other sizes most often used are “3” and “5” to set brass or nickel plated. [Figure 6-52] Hole punches—used for punching holes for grommets that come in various-sizes. Most often sizes used would be 0, 3, and 5. [Figure 6-53]

Cutting pad—used with hole punches. The best are plastic as these do not damage the punch. [Figure 6-54]

Rawhide mallet—used when punching holes and using grommet handsets. This is a preferred tool to use as the rawhide does not damage the other tools, and the weight makes the job easier and more consistent. The number 2 size at 4 pounds is the most common. A quality rubber dead blow hammer works well also. [Figure 6-55]

Binding tool—used for turning corners when binding material, such as para-pak or Cordura®. The model shown in Figure 6-56 is a soldering tool from an electronics repair store. The plastic handle has been replaced with a metal one. This is almost the perfect configuration for its use. The above tools provide the rigger with the means to pack and maintain most of the common parachutes in use today. There are numerous other tools, both old and new, that individuals may wish to acquire for specialized parachutes shown in Figure 6-57. In particular, there are older style parachutes and military parachutes that cannot be packed without specialized tools designed specifically for them. At the same time, the profession is constantly developing new tools to make the job easier.

Sewing Machines

After the senior rigger has put together a personal tool kit, the next step is to acquire a selection of sewing machines in order to do minor repairs of defects found during inspection prior to packing. For example, if you find a small hole in the canopy, a sewing machine is necessary to make the correct repair. For this, a lightweight single needle machine is the perfect beginning. As your sewing skills progress, additional specialized machines can be added as space and finances allow. Always remember, only those repairs allowed under your certificate may be performed.

When purchasing a new sewing machine, if money allows, buy the best and newest machines affordable. Do not avoid old machines because if they are not worn out and parts are available, they can be a good buy. If worn out, they are counterproductive. Buy self-lubricating machines as opposed to ones you need to oil manually. It is preferable to get machines with a reverse mechanism. Get an adjustable “K leg” stand and table. This allows you to set the height of the table to best fit your physical needs. Large people bending over a short table for any length of time understand the need for this feature. If the rigger is buying a new machine, it is possible to order an oversize table top in place of the standard 20" × 48" size. This allows better control over harness and containers so they do not overlap the table.

When buying any machine, particularly from a sewing machine dealer, get the operator’s manual and the parts manual for the machine. The operator’s manual tells you how to set up and operate the machine and is indispensable when the need to order parts arises. Manuals for older machines can be found online, along with parts manuals. When shopping for used or older machines, seek out reputable companies or individuals that used the machine for business, such as retiring parachute riggers, or upholstery shops, leather shops, etc. Whenever possible, it is always best to try the machine before you buy it. Experience has shown that the average rigger who wishes to set up a loft needs three initial machines: a lightweight single needle, such as a Singer 31-15 or Mitsubishi DB-130, for canopy repair and lightweight maintenance; a double needle, such as a Singer 212W140 or Mitsubishi LT2-220, with a binder or taping attachment for binding material and light manufacture; and a medium-duty double throw (308) zigzag machine, such as a Bernina Model 217, for suspension line repair and replacement. [Figures 6-58, 6-59, and 6-60]

For individuals on a tight budget or with space constraints, a good idea is to buy a double-needle machine first. By removing one needle and bobbin, the machine performs excellently as a single-needle machine. Replace the needle and bobbin, and the machine again is a double needle. This gives the rigger two machines for the price and space of one. A good zigzag machine also does multiple-duty. Its primary purpose is for zigzag sewing. However, adjusting the stitch regulator allows the rigger to do an acceptable job sewing bar tacks. By changing the stitch length and adjusting the width to the narrowest setting, some machines do good straight stitching, such as the Pfaff model 138.

An excellent machine for canopy patch work is an old Singer model 201-2 made in the 1950s. Because this machine was made for home use, they can be often be found in good working condition. The Singer model 201-2 is unique in that it takes up to a size 21 needle and is all gear driven with no belts. Another portable machine, which is very handy, is the Consew CP-146R Mini Walking Foot. [Figure 6-61] It sews a 301 straight or 304 zigzag stitch and sews through thicker material. Both sewing machines are good choices for traveling to the DZ. Any machine used in parachute rigging must be capable of using at least a size 18 needle to handle size E (69) thread. E thread is used in most sewing done by a senior rigger.

The double needle machine is preferable for binding tape repair, although with experience a rigger can install TY-3 tape with a single needle machine making two passes. When using this method, a tape folder must be used, and the inner stitch must be done first.

Advancing to master rigger requires additional specialized machines, such as a medium-duty, single needle, and compound feed machine, like a Consew 226R or a Juki LU-563. [Figure 6-62] The Consew 206RB is also a good choice for those on a budget. This type of machine is used for doing container repairs and light harness work. [Figure 6-63] The next machine should be a heavy-duty harness machine, such as a Singer 7-33, 7-34, or Consew 733R. [Figure 6-64] These machines specialize in sewing 5-cord nylon or heavier thread used in the manufacture and repair of parachute harnesses. Lastly, a bar tack machine, such as a Pfaff 3334 or Singer 69 class, allows fast, strong, professional repairs and is invaluable in line replacement and manufacturing. [Figure 6-65] This selection of machines provides the rigger with the ability to undertake virtually any repair or modification needed on today’s parachutes. Remember, all sewing machine manufacturers build models that fit within the various duty types. Those models mentioned are only representative for that category. [Figure 6-66]

Identification and Nomenclature

The purpose of the following information is not to make you an accomplished sewing machine expert and repairman. You should learn the basics about what makes your sewing machines work and how to perform routine maintenance and service. By doing so, simple problems can be fixed with little to no downtime or repair bills. The information on troubleshooting provides you with the basic knowledge needed to keep your machines running. [Figure 6-67] Figure 6-68 shows a close-up of the head only. Only those parts, which the rigger must deal with on a regular basis in order to operate and maintain the machine, are shown. For those individuals who wish to become more involved in the machine, a thorough study of the operator’s manual and parts manual is encouraged. The following numbers correspond with the part descriptions in Figure 6-68.

Sewing Theory

Once the rigger has become familiar with the parts of the machine, it is time to begin to understand the operation and theory of how the machines sew. The primary form of stitch pattern is called a 301 lockstitch. It is formed by two threads, one from the top and one from the bottom. The needle carries the thread from the top through the material, and the bobbin holds the thread on the bottom. The hook catches a small loop in the upper thread and carries it around the bobbin, and the two threads interlock between themselves to form the stitch. Figures 6-69 through 6-73 show the sequence in forming the stitch.

There are two types of principles of operation in sewing machines: the “oscillating” hook and the “rotary” hook. With the oscillating type, the bobbin and hook are positioned in a vertical plane to the bed of the machine. The hook rocks back and forth in a half revolution to complete the stitch. With the rotary type, the bobbin and hook may be either vertical or horizontal, and the hook makes two complete revolutions to complete one stitch. The oscillating models are generally slower in operation while the rotary is the high-speed model. Aside from the larger, heavy-duty machines, most new machines are rotary in operation. [Figures 6-74 and 6-75]

There are three types of feed mechanisms to move material through the machines. The first and simplest is called a “drop feed” machine. With this type of feed, a feed dog on the bottom rises up to press the material against the presser foot from the top and moves it along while the needle bar and needle move up and down penetrating the material and forming the stitch. This is generally the lightest duty of machines. The Singer 31-15 and Mitsubishi DB-130 are two examples of a drop feed.

The second type of machine is the “needle feed” machine. With this type, the needle bar moves in addition to the feed dog and helps move the material. This is a medium-duty machine. The Brother B-791 is an example of a “needle feed” machine. The third type of machine is a “compound feed” machine. This is a combination of the drop feed and needle feed along with an alternating presser foot. This is a more positive feed machine and is generally a medium-duty to heavy-duty machine. The Juki LU-563 and Consew 733R are good examples of “compound feed” machines.

Needles

The needle is one of the smallest parts of the machine but is probably the most important. It is the source of the perfect stitch and also the most aggravation. The use of the correct type and size of needle is most important in proper operation of a sewing machine. Improper needles cause a machine to produce poor stitching and may damage the material, or the machine might not sew at all. Using the wrong needle can also damage the machine. [Figure 6-76] Without getting into the advanced aspects of needle technology, there are a few simple things for the rigger to know.

Operation

Each sewing machine is unique and comes with a detailed operator’s manual that explains step-by-step the procedures for sewing. Listed below are some common steps that can be used and are applicable to most machines.

Listen for any sounds that seem abnormal and notice any feeling of tightness or binding of the machine.

Installing the Needle and Threading the Machine

Most single-needle-type machines have the needle positioned in the needle bar with the long thread groove facing to the left. It is important to always check the threading diagram to make sure the needle is installed correctly and ensure that the needle is installed all the way up to the stop in the needle groove of the needle bar. Check that the long thread groove faces in the direction for that type of machine and that the needle clamp screw is tight. [Figure 6-79]

Examples of single-needle machines where the thread groove does not face left are Singer 17W15 308-stitch or Singer 69 bar tack. The thread groove most often faces the bobbin, but not always in the case of a Horizontal Rotary Hook, such as Singer 201-2. Read the manual, if the needle does not pick up the bobbin thread, it may not be installed correctly. Take a cone of thread and place it on the thread stand. Route the thread upward through the guide at the top of the stand and then to the pre-tension thread guide on top of the arm of the machine. [Figure 6-80] Most modern machines use a similar method of threading. However, there may be additional thread guides of different shapes to route the thread through. This is why the rigger should have a copy of the operator’s manual for proper threading of each machine.

Once the machine is threaded correctly, take a sample of material suitable for the type of machine, thread, and needle. Form several layers and place it under the presser foot. Lower the presser foot while holding the upper and lower threads securely to the rear of the presser foot. Turn the balance wheel again and run a few stitches by hand to see if the machine sews properly. If everything works as expected, turn the power on and begin sewing. If you are unfamiliar with this particular machine, begin slowly until you get the feel of the clutch and speed of the machine. The harder you push, the faster the machine runs. Some industrial machines are able to run very fast. This can intimidate many. If you need to slow the machine down, you can replace the pulley on the motor with one smaller pulley. A parts and repair shop will have or be able to order the pulley you need. Order the smallest pulley that fits the shaft on your motor. You do have to know the make and model of the machine.

Another way to slow a machine is to replace the clutch motor with a rheostat motor. They operate the same way as a dimmer switch for a lamp. The operator sets the speed of the motor, and it does not run faster than what it is set at. When finished sewing, always place a piece of fabric under the presser foot in order to keep the feed dogs from causing damage to the presser foot.

If the machine does not sew correctly, consult the troubleshooting guide to determine what the problem is and how to remedy it. [Figure 6-81] If the machine jams, it is very important to not force it, as you can cause damage to the machine.

Machine Maintenance

The most important part of maintaining your sewing machines is to keep them clean and lubricated. Each machine should be wiped down daily with a clean rag to remove oil and dirt. The amount of use each machine gets dictates the cleaning required. However, on at least a weekly schedule, the moving parts should be cleaned with a small brush to remove dust, lint, dirt, and threads. An air hose or bottle is useful in blowing dirt out of places the brush cannot reach. Be careful when doing this as small particles can be propelled through the air and can get into the eyes. At the very least, the dirt can be blown onto other machines and work.

After cleaning, each machine should be lubricated to ensure smooth operation. For those machines that are self-lubricating, check the level and condition of the oil in the reservoir. For these machines, a number 1 white oil that has a higher viscosity should be used. Depending on the amount of use, the oil should be changed every 6 months to a year. In no case should the oil be changed less than once a year. For machines that require manual lubrication, a number 2 white oil should be used as it has a lower viscosity to better adhere to the moving parts. This should be done daily at the end of the workday. Oiling the machine at this time allows the oil to seep downward through the mechanisms and collect on the bottom.

In the morning before use, take a clean rag and wipe off the excess oil so it does not stain the parachute materials. Pay particular attention to the shuttle race. Keeping this well lubricated ensures smooth operation and a quieter machine. One item that tends to get overlooked is the bobbin winder. The shaft of the winder has a small hole in the top and a drop of oil should be added at least once a week to keep it free.

Sewing Machine Attachments

The most common attachment that the rigger uses is a tape folder or “binder.” This attachment folds tape, typically ¾- inch Type-3, used for binding the edges of container, bags, or any material needing an edge binder. Used in conjunction with a double-needle machine, it folds the tape in half for a professional appearance and greatly speeds up the work. [Figure 6-82]

There are two types of folders. One is a straight folder where the tape is fed straight into the machine under the presser foot. [Figure 6-83] This folder is used for most straight binding, has minimal adjustments, and is the least expensive usually costing around 35 dollars. The second type of folder is a right angle folder. [Figure 6-84] The best models of these are custom built by companies that specialize in attachments. They utilize special feed dogs, throat plates, and presser feet in addition to the folder. This type of folder is hinged to swing out of the way for changing bobbins. Most machines have several adjustments that allow for fine tuning the folder for optimum performance depending on the tape used. Folders can cost several hundred dollars.

Another type of attachment is used to feed reinforcing tape such as 3⁄8-inch Type-3 onto a canopy seam. This is a simple guide that is attached to the presser foot and feeds the tape evenly to the needles. Yet another attachment is a seam folder used to make a French fell seam in canopy construction. Figure 6-85 shows both of the above attachments used in conjunction with each other. Over the years, the sewing industry has developed literally hundreds of different attachments to speed up and improve the sewing process.

The Parachute Loft

The term “loft” comes from earlier times when the area used to pack and maintain parachutes was usually situated in the aircraft hangar above the aircraft. Hence, the term“loft.” The name has continued to this day and is synonymous with the parachute workshop.

Under, 14 CFR part 65, section 65.127(b), a rigger must have: “Suitable housing that is adequately heated, lighted, and ventilated for drying and airing parachutes.” Under 14 CFR part 65, section 65.127(d), the rigger must have: “Adequate housing facilities to perform his duties and to protect his tools and equipment.” All of this only makes sense in that the properties stipulated are those that are best suited for storing and maintaining parachutes. Although these regulations have been in effect for over 40 years and were originally intended to apply to parachutes with organic fibers in them, they still apply today. From the practical side, keeping yourself and the parachute warm promotes efficient work habits. Good lighting means that you can properly inspect the parachute. Good ventilation allows the parachute to properly dry before packing. Most individuals have been to automotive garages where there was oil on the floor and parts strewn everywhere. Yet when the mechanic is finished with your car, the cost is fair and your car runs like new. In contrast, modern professional garages sometimes look like hospital facilities in their cleanliness and organization, the cost is high, and your car does not start after you pay the bill. Where would you take your car? The loft, as depicted in Figure 6-86, is a dream for most riggers who do there rigging in there basement as a hobby. For the rigger who lives in a climate that is conducive to year round work and plans to make rigging a full time job, they may invest in a full-time loft. In colder climates, it is busy in the summer, and in winter, well cold. A clean, organized, and well-designed loft can inspire customer confidence, but the rigger’s ability to work on the parachute is all that matters when you need that canopy over your head. The loft facility houses the sewing machines and other equipment over and above the hand tools that all riggers should have. A full-service loft has the following areas:

Packing and Inspection Area

A main part of the loft layout is a suitable packing area. According to 14 CFR part 65, section 65.127(a), the rigger must have: “A smooth top table at least 3 feet wide by 40 feet long.” Technically, this is still required and is used primarily for round canopies. However, with today’s square parachutes, the accepted practice is to pack on the floor on a suitable covering, such as carpet. Squares can be packed on a table, but there must be access to the canopy from both sides of the table in order to inspect and fold it properly. [Figure 6-87] Even when packed on a table, the parachute may have to be moved to the floor to aid in closing the container. If the rigger is packing a round parachute, a packing table is preferable as it makes the rigger’s job easier and more comfortable. If there is no packing table, then there needs to be an open area big enough to lay out the round or square parachute. While not expressly required, most lofts have a canopy hanger for inspection, airing, and assembling square canopies. [Figure 6-88] Many riggers who do not have the room to hang a canopy at home take the canopy to the DZ where space is available. A square canopy can also be aired by S folding and hanging it from a simple hook. This way a square canopy can be aired in a small space, but it is important to note that this technique is to air the canopy out, not inspect it. [Figure 6-89]

Along with the canopy hanger, an assembly and inspection table is extremely useful. [Figure 6-90] It allows the harness and container to be assembled to the canopy without laying it on the floor. The assembly table allows the correct distance from the floor to mate with the canopy and provides an ideal storage area for the packing tools, wrenches, other equipment, and materials needed for assembly. [Figure 6-91] This table can be a folding banquet table or wheeled cart if space is limited.

Work Area Including Layout Tables and Sewing Machines

The work and layout tables are ideally 4 × 8 feet for optimum space usage. Any canopy layout can be done on the packing table. The work tables should be adjacent to the sewing machines for minimum walking distance between them.

Many lofts have a small table along the walls against which the sewing machines are placed. This allows storage of materials and other items needed during the sewing operation.

The right end of the sewing machine table is placed against this table so that the left, or open end, is available to lay canopies or containers on.

Harness Table and Machines

Because of the nature of harness work, there are many specialized materials and tools unique to harness work. The table houses the hot knife, hot glue gun, templates, and rulers. [Figure 6-92] The harness machine should be adjacent to the harness table for maximum efficiency.

Cutting Table

The cutting table is used for cutting canopy fabric for canopy repairs, para-pak or Cordura® for container repairs, or for cutting anything for general manufacturing. Ideally, this cutting table has a glass surface for use with a hot knife. One of the best designs utilizes a 4 × 4 feet glass surface that is hidden below a wooden cover that can be removed when needed and protects the glass when not in use. This table serves dual duty as a work table. [Figure 6-93] If space is limited, a smaller piece of glass can be used. If available, use a thick laminated piece of glass that is less prone to breaking.

Metal Working Area

It is important to segregate the metal working area from the rest of the loft because metal working creates considerable contamination with metal shavings and other particles injurious to parachute fabrics. The metal working area has drills, grinders, swaging tools, Nicopress® tools, and other tools needed for repairing or overhauling metal components. [Figure 6-94] The grommet area should be adjacent to the metal working area, since several of the tools used to remove grommets are found there. [Figure 6-95] The grommet machine or handsets are kept in this area. Parachute containers or other parts needing grommets are brought to this area for work. A metal working cart with drawers for tools may be used, provided it is kept away from any fabric that could be damaged.

Office Area

The office area handles the administrative and record keeping functions of the loft. It should have a desk, file cabinets, library or bookshelves, telephone/fax machine, and computer. All work orders are processed through here.

Materials Storage Area

The storage area may be a separate room, a pegboard, or cabinets on the walls where thread, tapes, and webbing are stored. [Figure 6-96] Rolls of fabric may be stored under the work or packing tables or on wall racks.

All of the above may be practical for the full-time professional loft, but for the individual rigger there may be certain space constraints. Many riggers take over their garage or basement, which makes a perfectly suitable loft with some cleaning and remodeling.

Chapter Summary

This chapter contains information on the different types of sewing machines, component parts and there function, stitch formation, needles, and troubleshooting and hand tools used while performing the work of senior and Master Parachute Riggers. Having the correct tools for parachute rigging cannot be over emphasized. When the rigger is brought a parachute to be inspected, repaired, and repacked anything less than the best is unacceptable. The customer trusts the rigger with his life and no effort should be spared to provide the best. It takes time to accumulate all the tools available. With any given task, the correct tools and space to perform the job is a must. Most important is that the rigger has the knowledge to do the work for which he or she is rated. The rigger must also have access to information, such as parachute manuals, manufactures contact information, and other riggers with more experience.