Repairs, Alterations, and Manufacture

Links—condition and confirmation of barrel condition (not cracked or stripped), soft links, installation, condition, tacked in place. [Figure 7-2A and B]

Slider—check fabric for rips and burns; grommets for dents, nicks, or damage. [Figure 7-3A, B, C, and D]

Grommet protectors—confirm they are installed correctly and in good condition. [Figure 7-4A and B]

Lines—check for burns, continuity, trim, and wear at lower section of steering lines. [Figure 7-5A and B]

Stabilizers—check attachments, signs of excessive stress, fabric damage or stress, and line attachment stitch. [Figure 7-6A and B]

Line attachments—check for stitch, material fatigue, paying close attention for damage behind the line tab. [Figure 7-7A and B]

Seam starts—look for back stitching failure or fraying. [Figure 7-8]

Seam work—check for snags, pulls, loose stitches. [Figure 7-9]

Fabric—check entire canopy for burns, snags, rips, and tears and check inside cells, cross port condition, and rib damage. [Figure 7-10A and B]

Pilot chute attachment—check this area excessively, inside and out, and all support tape attached to it on rib. The damage here is not always obvious. [Figure 7-11]

Center cell top skin (from pilot chute attachment down to tail seam)—inspect skin for snags, dirt, discoloration, body oil/sweat transfer. Body contact is very high and sweat transfer and contact cause much faster deterioration of fabric. [Figure 7-12]

That, if improperly done, might appreciably affect weight, balance, structural strength, performance, powerplant operation, flight characteristics, or other qualities affecting airworthiness; or

That is not done according to accepted practices or cannot be done by elementary operations.

Immersion in salt water for more than 6 hours if the parachute contains cadmium plated parts.

Immersion in salt water for more than 24 hours if the parachute contains stainless steel parts (i.e., slider stops).

Immersion in salt water and cannot be cleaned for 36 hours.

Wash affected area with mild soap and water solution.

Rinse affected area thoroughly with fresh, clear water.

Hang assembly in drying tower in accordance with the section titled, Drying a Parachute.

Soak the stained area in cold water.

Hand wash affected area with mild soap and water solution.

Rinse affected area thoroughly with fresh clean water.

Hang assembly in drying tower in accordance with the section titled Drying a Parachute.

Hang the parachute and shake to remove most of the dirt and sand.

Brush lightly with a soft-bristled brush.

If the assembly is extremely contaminated, perform the following:

Wash only the soiled areas in warm water with a mild soap.

Rinse affected area thoroughly with fresh clean water.

Hang assembly in drying tower in accordance with the section titled, Drying a Parachute.

Remove pilot chute assembly and/or drogue/slider control line.

Hang parachute full-length or the seams may experience uneven shrinkage creating a built in turn.

Hang reserve parachute assembly by all four connector links for the same time.

A mild soap or soap solution and a water softener may be used.

Immerse the parachute into clean, fresh water contained in a smooth vessel, such as a bathtub.

Do not wring the parachute fabric. Damage to fabric permeability will result.

Gently move items by hand until all air pockets are removed. Agitate as little as possible or damage to fabric permeability will result.

Empty the vessel of dirty water and refill with fresh, warm, clear water.

Rinse the parachute several times in warm, fresh water until rinse water is clear.

Hang assembly in drying tower in accordance with the section titled, Drying a Parachute.

Model, size, version

Manufacturer specifications (approval for repairs, requirements)

TSO C23b, C23c, and C23d

ADs

Manufacturer’s SB’s

Drawings, information, or repair standards from manufacturers research & development (R&D) engineers

Designated alteration data offered by the FAA

Manufacturer’s manuals (including installation and assembly instructions)

FAA certification required

Equipment (sewing and tools)

Materials, quantity, quality, and Mil-Spec

Skills, prior knowledge, and experience with type of repair

Advisability of attempting this repair In many situations, it is a better decision, economically and for the end repair, to return the damaged equipment to the manufacturer. This answers all questions as to the quality, manufacturer/FAA repair requirements, and airworthiness of the item when returned to service and confirms that the repair meets the continued service condition.

Applicable products—those parts of the parachute that the procedure addresses.

Description—brief explanation of the repair or alteration.

Materials—those items needed to perform the procedure.

Machines—those machines required to do the procedure. In addition to the machines, there may be special attachments required to do the work properly.

Equipment—additional tools needed (in addition to the sewing machines).

Procedure—the step-by-step guide through the repair. This may include a disassembly and reassembly procedure. Disassembly may be straightforward, but the reassembly instructions may provide special tips or procedures to accomplish the task.

Inspection—the final inspection of the finished repair. This is a very critical part. In many cases, the rigger is doing the work alone. Within the manufacturing environment, the persons doing the work generally do not inspect their own work. This is given over to dedicated inspection personnel. For the private rigger, there may be no one around to inspect the work. In the case of simple repairs, it is easy for the rigger to inspect the finished job. For more extensive repairs, such as a harness main lift web replacement, there can be several areas that need to be addressed, such as dimensions, stitching, and hardware orientation.

Knowledge to do the job, to include the required certification and authorization

Proper equipment, such as sewing machines or hand tools

Availability of the proper materials The individual may be a master rigger with a complete parachute loft at his or her disposal but, without the materials as used in the original manufacture, the correct repair cannot be made. By following these simple guidelines, riggers are always able to determine whether or not they can do the job properly. Most of today’s manufacturers provide guidance for the repair and maintenance of their products. These instructions are the official guidelines that the rigger must follow. The four primary areas of parachute repair and maintenance are: canopy and lines; container; harness and risers; and accessory components. These areas are summarized within the seven sections of this chapter as follows:

Inspect the damaged thread or seam area. If the thread is merely broken or frayed, overstitch the seam with a minimum of 4 to 6 inches at each end.

If the seam is gathered or bunched up, it may be necessary to cut the thread in order to smooth out the seam and then overstitch the damaged area with a minimum of 4 to 6 inches at each end. [Figure A and Figure B]

If the restitching was done on a radial seam of a round canopy, which has a tape or suspension line within the seam, make sure you did not catch the tape or line in the stitching.

For zigzag stitching, such as on suspension lines, a .25 inch overstitch on each end is standard. [Figure C]

Spread out the canopy on a smooth surface.

Smooth out the damaged area and hold in place with the shot bags. [Figure A]

Inspect the damaged area.

Trim any loose threads and smooth any loose fabric back into place.

For small holes, a single-side patch will suffice. For holes up to .5-inch in diameter or a tear, a double-sided patch is necessary.

If the damage is a tear, the two sides must be positioned so the edges touch. Use scotch tape to temporarily hold the edges together. [Figure B]

For a hole, cut a piece of ripstop tape 2 inches square. For a double-sided patch, cut two pieces. [Figure C] For a tear, cut the tape approximately 2 inches longer than the length of the tear and cut two pieces.

For the single-side patch, round the corners with approximately a 1⁄8 inch radius. For the double-sided patches, place the two pieces face to face and round the corners of both pieces at the same time. This ensures a perfect match and alignment. [Figure D]

For the 2 × 2 inch patch, peel back one edge of the paper backing and center the tape over the damaged area. Press the exposed adhesive side of the tape to the fabric and smoothly peel the rest of the paper from the fabric with one hand while smoothing the fabric with the other hand. [Figure E]

Use the wallpaper roller to smooth out the patch and remove any air bubbles from the patch. [Figure F]

For a double-side patch, turn the canopy or damaged material inside out. Align the second piece of ripstop with the edges of the first and repeat the process. Again smooth out the tape with the roller.

If the patch is to be a temporary one, the repair is complete. If, however, it is to be permanent, it may be advisable to sew around the edge of the patch. In this case, use the single-needle machine and sew approximately 1⁄8 inch in from the edge of the tape. Overstitch a minimum of 1.25 inches. [Figure G]

Be sure you have found all the damage.

Mark the boundaries of the damage.

Allow 2 inches for repair and fudge factor from each boundary.

A 6-inch patch will cover approximately 2 square inches of damage. A 7-inch square piece of fabric will be needed to make a 6-inch patch, using 1⁄2-inch seam allowance. Always put the patch on the inside of the parachute.

Find the center of the damage on the 13½-inch square piece.

Measure half the patch size or 3 inches out to the left of the center of damage following one ripstop line in the fabric.

Make a center mark and a left border mark (this will look like a T laying on its side).

Measure half the patch size or 3 inches up the left border ripstop line from the center line and mark the top border and left border (this will look like an upside down L). [Figure 7-16]

Count down 10 ripstop boxes from the top border and make a mark. This is the start mark.

Count down 14 ripstop boxes from any corner of the 7-inch square piece and make a start mark. [Figure 7-17]

Place the 2 start marks on top of each other using the hemostat to hold the 4 block seam allowance in place and sink the needle. Always sew counter clockwise around patches so that the bulk of the parachute does not have to go through the bed of the machine. [Figure 7-18]

Count up 4 blocks from the bottom edge of the patch and use the hemostat to form a corner, line up the ripstop boxes, and load each piece with the same pressure. Then, sew to the corner. [Figure 7-19]

Repeat this step until the first two corners are sewn down. At this point, check the last corner to assure that it will fall in the top and left border marks (upside down L) were made when you the measurement step was completed. Then, sew the last two corners down. [Figure 7-20]

While sewing, it is important to pull the fabric at the same speed the machine is going and to set the hook in the stitch loop before lifting the foot to turn a corner. Always make a four to six-inch oversew. [Figure 7-21]

If the fabric was loaded correctly, the patch will be square and will lay flat with no bubble. [Figure 7-22]

Using the scissors, cut the damage out along the rip stop lines 7 boxes in from the stitching that holds the patch on. Placing your hand between the patch and parachute while trimming prevents damaging your patch with the scissors. [Figure 7-23]

Make a diagonal cut in each corner to 3 ripstop boxes from the corner. [Figure 7-24]

Place the work under the sewing machine and, using the hemostat, grab one ripstop box in from the cut edge. Place the parachute fabric behind the fold back of the patch forming a French fell seam. Do this in two places and seat the one box fold back against the patch stitch row with the tip of the hemostat. Sew around the parachute patch repeating this process on each side. [Figures 7-25 and 7-26]

Take care that each corner is fully seated and square. [Figure 7-27]

Use the side of the presser foot as a gauge for stitching. [Figure 7-28]

Always make a 4 to 6 inch oversew or turn the next corner on a short legged patch. [Figure 7-29]

Inspect the work thoroughly. Hold over available light source. [Figure 7-30]

Lay the canopy inside out on the pin board. Pin the canopy by placing tension on the seams and making sure they are straight.

Cut a piece of fabric larger than the damaged panel by approximately 6 inches around all sides. Make sure that the weave of the panel matches that of the canopy. For a block constructed canopy, the bolt of fabric runs parallel down the radial seams of the canopy. For a bias constructed canopy, the bolt runs parallel to the diagonal seams.

Trim one side of the panel to align the ripstop weave with the cross seam.

Fold over the edge of the panel fabric approximately ¾ inch and pin in place aligning the edge with the outside of the cross seam. [Figure A]

Smooth out the panel fabric over the damaged area and align the opposite edge over the opposite cross seam. Cut the panel fabric approximately 1 inch wider than the panel. Fold the edge under and pin in place. You now have the top and bottom cross seams of the panel in place. [Figure B]

Stitch the outside row of stitching starting and finishing approximately 1 inch short of the radial seams.

Take the panel fabric along the radial seam and trim approximately ¾ inch from the outside edge of the radial seam. Fold under and pin in place. Repeat for the opposite radial seam. [Figure C]

Overstitch the end of the cross seam that was left open a minimum of 2 inches and proceed to and down the radial seam and then overstitch the open end of the cross seam. Repeat for the opposite side. It is advisable to hold a bit of tension on the seams as you sew to minimize the shrinkage.

Turn the canopy right side out. Trim out the damaged panel along the seams, leaving approximately 5⁄8 inch. [Figure D] Also trim the excess edge of the panel as needed.

Fold the edge of the canopy under the panel to create the seam and pin in place.

Sew the inside of the panel seam in place. Again, hold tension on the fabric as you sew to minimize shrinkage.

Remove the canopy from the machine being careful not to pull on the threads. Trim the threads. Inspect the panel.

Determine the extent of the damage. Mark out the damaged area across the panel, following the weave of the fabric. Unpick the loaded seams that hold the damaged fabric for at least 8–10 inches past the damage area mark. It is always easier to unpick more of the seam to allow better access to the damaged area. Restitching the seam is one of the easiest operations. Fighting the canopy is not.

Unpick the non-loaded seam the same distance as the loaded seams.

Lay the canopy on the floor, take the pin board or cardboard box and position it under the damaged area. Take the scotch tape and tape the raw edges of the tear together to stabilize the panel. [Figure A]

Pin the damaged panel to the pin board. Do not overstretch the fabric, but make sure to take all the slack out so the panel is square. In this instance, the canopy had spanwise reinforcing tapes, which were used to stabilize the canopy; however, one of them was damaged and requires replacement.[Figure B]

Mark a line on the fabric at least 2 inches from the damage area on both sides of the damaged panel. [Figure C]

Cut a piece of fabric approximately 6 inches wider and longer than the damaged panel area. Make sure that one of the edges is straight and even with the weave of the fabric. Trim one of the adjacent sides at 90 degrees to the straight edge.

Mark a line parallel to the straight edge at 3⁄4 inch from the edge. Center the new panel on the damaged one.

Check the tension of the two panels. They should be equal.

Take a straightedge and mark the location of the spanwise reinforcing tape. [Figure F]

Sew the panel along the outer edge at .12 inch from the folded edge.

Turn the panel inside out. Trim the damaged panel at .62 inch from the edge of the panel edge. [Figure G]

Fold the fabric under to create a French fell seam. Sew a stitch row .12 inch from the folded edge.

Sew a piece of reinforcing tape on the bottom of the replacement panel along the line for the spanwise reinforcing tape. [Figure H]

Repair the non-loadbearing rib with a three-sided patch. [Figure I]

Draw a line along the edge of the partial panel on each side from the point where the old panel meets the new one. Trim the fabric along this line. [Figure J]

Check the tension of the new partial panel piece against the edges of the other panels that formed the original seam. They should all be equal. [Figure K]

Refold the original seam with the three panel edges and stitch as per the original seam. [Figure L] Overstitch a minimum of 2 inches on each end.

If a line attachment has been removed for the repair, the tab must be replaced. Make sure that the line/tab does not have a twist in it. Locate it at the correct location and reattach as per original.

A “loaded” rib or one with support tapes for the line attachment points, or

A crossport is damaged and needs to be repaired and recut. In this case, the crossport area needs replacement. [Figure A]

Determine the extent of the damaged area and unpick the top and bottom seams to access the rib. [Figure B] In most cases, restitching the rib to the top and bottom panels is fairly straightforward. Because of this, opening up the seam for a good distance (18 inches plus either side of the proposed patch) allows easier access and sewing.

Pin the damaged rib to the pin board to stabilize the material for marking. Mark out the damaged portion of the panel, following the weave of the fabric.

Using the patching square, mark a parallel line .75 inch inside the patch fold lines and then another one .62 inch inside the second line. [Figure D] The inner lines are the trim lines for the rib patch.

Cut a piece of fabric approximately 4 inches wider and longer than the damaged panel area. Make sure that one of the width edges is straight and even with the weave of the fabric.

Fold the straight edge .75 inch from the edge and pin in place across the damage line. Make sure the fabric is centered on the existing panel.

Remove the pins from the crossport area and smooth the new panel fabric over the damaged panel.

Fold the new fabric outwards at the patch fold mark and pin in place. Use the patching square to mark a line at .75 inch in from the fold line. [Figure E]

Trim the repair panel at the inner line, fold under and pin in place. [Figure F]

Check the tension of the two panels. They should be equal. Mark the top and bottom edges and the crossport location. [Figure G and Figure H]

Remove the rib from the pin board. Sew the two outboard seams approximately .06 inch from the edge with the single needle. [Figure I]

Trim the original damaged panel to the trim lines. [Figure J] Fold the fabric under to create a French fell seam. Repeat with the opposite seam. [Figure K]

Sew the inside row to complete the seam. [Figure L]

Cut the new crossport to match the original location and shape. [Figure M]

Trim the top and bottom edges as marked. [Figure N]

Pin the top seam back onto the top panel. Sew in place with either the single needle or if available, with the double needle machine and puller. [Figure O] Repeat with the bottom seam.

Inspect finished work. [Figure P]

Inspect the area to determine the extent of the damage. [Figure A] If the stitching that holds the attachment point to the canopy is simply coming loose, re-stitch as per the original.

If the canopy fabric is damaged, then turn the canopy inside out. The center rib should have a reinforced area that brackets the attachment point. [Figure B]

Detach the top of the rib from the top surface of the cell where the attachment point is located. [Figure C] If the rib is damaged, then a rib repair is needed.

Usually the top skin of the cell needs to be repaired. Again, depending on the extent of the damage, either perform a patch on the panel or a partial panel replacement.

After the top skin is repaired, a new reinforcement patch needs to be installed on the center of the cell so that it is centered over the attachment point.

Take the pre-cut reinforcement panel and sew it in place with two rows of the single-needle machine. The corners should be folded in at a 45 degree angle to eliminate any point loading on the corners. [Figure D]

Reattach the rib to the top surface of the canopy as per the original configuration.

Install a new pilot chute attachment tape and ring at the appropriate location. [Figure E]

Lay the canopy out on the packing table. Straighten the canopy ensuring the apex is straight and even tension on the lines.

Remove the damaged line from the canopy.

Cut a new line from the same material as the original approximately 36 inches longer than the damaged line.

Pre-stretch the line by applying approximately 10 percent of its rated strength for a minimum of 15 minutes.

Attach the line to the connector link in the same manner as the original. Most of the newer canopies use braided line and a finger-trap attachment technique. [Figure A]

Zigzag or bar tack the line, whichever is appropriate.

Run the free end of the line to the canopy. If the canopy utilizes a V-tab configuration, route the line through the V-tab. [Figure B]

Pull the V-tab down until it is even with the rest of the skirt. Mark the line at the edge of the skirt and pin in place. [Figure C]

Sew the line to the canopy with the zigzag machine duplicating the original manufacture. [Figure D] Trim the excess line from the canopy.

Return the canopy to the packing table, straighten, and apply tension. Check the trim of the replaced line against the others.

Lay the canopy out on one side and straighten the lines.

Remove the damaged line. If the cascade is undamaged, remove the cascade line from the junction of the main line. If the cascade is damaged, remove it as well.

Cut a new main line approximately 24 inches longer than the old one.

Finger-trap a loop at the connector link end. [Figure A] Make sure that the size of the loop duplicates the original or adjacent lines. If the loop is made too small, there may be difficulty in changing connector links or risers as needed. Sew the fingertrap with either a zigzag or bar tack.

Pre-tension the line. With Spectra®, load the line with approximately 30 pounds for 30 seconds. Place the line on the connector link.

Feed the running end of the line through the slider and directly to the line attachment tape on the canopy. Make sure that there are no twists to the line or it is around the other lines. Run through the attachment tape and re-create the original knot. [Figure B]

Tension the line using adjacent lines for reference. [Figure C]

Mark the location for the entry point for the cascade line. [Figure D]

Cut a piece of line approximately18 inches longer than the original cascade.

Finger-trap the cascade into the main line and sew with either a zigzag or bar tack. [Figure E]

Attach the main line to the line attachment loop as per the original knot configuration.

Tension the line against the adjacent lines and secure the knot. [Figure F] Repeat with the cascade.

Finger-trap the running end of the lines and sew with either a zigzag or bar tack. [Figure G]

After measuring the control lines, remove them from one side only. Leave the other side for a reference to check the new lines against both for measurements and construction.

Determine how many upper control lines there are on the canopy. Four is the most common and this procedure uses this number for the example. With four upper control lines, there are really two continuous lines forming the assembly. Each pair of upper lines is folded in the middle to form two legs of the upper assembly. Each line is therefore measured at twice the A dimension plus 12 inches. If the upper control lines have different lengths, make sure to use the longest measurement to determine the cut length for A. [Figure A]

Using a finger-trapping needle or wire, finger-trap a loop at the center of each of the lines so the result is a line with a loop at the center with two legs extending from it. [Figure B] The eye of the loop should be no more than .25 inch with the fingertrapped portion 1 inch long. Bar tack or zigzag the finger-trapped section.

There are two types of lower control line configurations: a continuous line and a non-continuous line. The continuous line is one piece with a brake loop finger-trapped into it at the proper location. The non-continuous line consists of two pieces that form the upper lower and lower lower control line, as well as the brake loop. The continuous line configuration is found primarily on the older generation main canopies and on many of today’s reserve canopies. The non-continuous configuration is found on most of the modern main canopies due to the ease of replacement because of wear.

Take a piece of line used for the lower control line and cut a line equal to the B dimension in Figure A plus 12 inches. On this line, measure from one end 8 inches plus the C dimension from Figure A and mark at that location. This will be the bottom of the brake loop. Mark the brake loop location according to Figure C.

Take another piece of the lower brake loop line approximately 12 inches long. Finger-trap the brake loop assembly according to Figure D. Make sure the ends are scissor cut and tapered. Bar tack or zigzag the assembly. [Figure E]

Measure and mark the C dimension from the bottom of the brake loop. Run the bitter end of the lower control line thru the eyes of two of the upper control lines and finger-trap the line back into itself. [Figure F] Adjust the finger-trap to allow for shrinkage. This completes the continuous line method of lower control line fabrication.

Take a piece of line used for the lower control line and cut it at the C dimension from Figure A plus 12 inches. Mark at 6 inches from one end and finger-trap a loop .5–1 inch long as per Figure G.

Take a second piece of control line material and cut it to the D dimension from Figure A plus 12 inches additional. Mark at 6 inches from one end.

Finger-trap this line thru the loop at the end of the upper lower control line. Make sure there is a minimum of 4 inches finger-trapped in the line and that the lower loop is tight against the upper loop.

Bar tack or zigzag the finger-trapped portions to secure them. [Figure H]

Measure and mark the C dimension from the bottom of the brake loop. Run the bitter end of the lower control line thru the eyes of two of the upper control lines and finger-trap the line back into itself. Adjust the finger-trap to allow for shrinkage. This completes the non-continuous line method of lower control line fabrication.

Measure the upper control lines according to dimension A plus .5 inch. If the upper control lines are of uneven dimensions, make sure that they are marked accordingly.

Lay the canopy on the floor with the trailing edge flat and straight and the line attachment tabs exposed. Lay the upper control lines so that they run to the correct attachment points and route them through the tabs. [Figure I]

Make sure that the lines do not have a twist in them and finger-trap the lines back into themselves with a minimum of a 4 inches finger-trap. Leave the running ends exposed. [Figure J] Do not trim the excess line.

Anchor the brake loop securely and apply tension through the complete control line assembly. Measure the dimension A plus B starting at the outside corner of the trailing edge. Adjust the tension of the finger-trap to allow for shrinkage. Pin the finger-trapped section with a marker flag. [Figure K] Repeat with each upper control line until complete.

After setting the dimension for each upper control line, bar tack or zigzag each section. Trim the excess so that the end retreats into the line.

Measure the dimension D on the lower control line to set the toggle location. [Figure L] If the canopy is on risers, route the lower control line thru the guide ring and tie the steering toggle in place.

Many times, when the crossport is damaged, there is extensive gathering and distortion of the fabric. Before progressing, smooth out the fabric to reshape the rib as close as possible to its original shape.

The basic idea of the crossport repair is a three-sided patch sewn the same as a standard French fell seam patch. The fourth side is open and re-cut to the shape of the crossport. [Figure A] However, if the damage is extensive enough, it may be advisable to patch the complete crossport area and then re-cut the crossport in its original shape with a hot knife.

Pin the rib to the pin board.

Mark out the damaged area as you would a standard patch. Lay the patch material in place and pin.

Sew the patch in place with a seam 1⁄16 inch from the edge.

Turn the patch over, fold the seam, and sew as a standard patch. [Figure B]

Lay the repaired rib on a suitable surface and re-cut the crossport shape in the exposed edge of the patch material with the hot knife. [Figure C]

The first thing the rigger must do is to complete a measurement of the lines of the canopy. The chart in Figure A shows a matrix for measuring the lines of the canopy. Simply fill in the boxes for each dimension measured.

Start by laying the canopy on the left side, anchor the connector links, and flake it out as if for packing. Most canopy lines are measured from the inside of the connector links, which is called the zero point.

Anchor the end of the tape measure even with the zero mark at the end of the lines using the pony clamp. [Figure B]

Start with the top outside right front corner line of the canopy. This line will be line 1A. Depending on the number of cells to the canopy, on a 7-cell canopy, the left corner line will be line 8A. On a 9-cell canopy, this line will be line 10A. Make sure that the canopy is oriented correctly so that the measurement sequence follows the boxes on the chart.

Measure all the A lines first and then proceed to the B, C, and D line groups. The lines should be measured under approximately 10 pounds of tension. As the rigger moves through the lines and changes riser groups, the end of the tape measure should be moved to the corresponding connector link and re-clamped.

Measure the control line groups and fill in the boxes.

Compare the measurements to the original line lengths as in the manual.

Depending on the type of canopy and type of line used, most canopies tend to have the center A lines stretch due to the load on opening. The outside lines that attach to the stabilizers and the control lines tend to shrink due to the friction generated by the slider on opening. The key concept to remember is that the length of the lines is not the critical dimension. What is most important is the trim differential, which determines the angle of attack of the canopy. The trim differential is the difference in the line length between the A, B, C, and D lines. The most accurate method of measuring this is to use the A lines as the base dimension and then measure A-B, A-C, and A-D. This method takes into consideration the tolerance allowed. This dimension is what makes the canopy open and fly correctly. If the overall length of the lines is 2–3 inches longer or shorter, but the trim is correct, there is probably no appreciable effect on the canopy. With this in mind, it may be desirable to “shortline” the canopy during the trim process in order to not have to replace any main lines.

Because of the fact that the cascaded main lines may stretch at different rates, the adjustment to be made to the lines that have stretched (i.e., gotten longer) needs to be done at the canopy end and not at the connector link.

Remove the bar tacks or zigzag stitching at the canopy end of the lines.

Adjust the line length as needed to return to the original dimensions. Re-tie the knots or finger-trap as necessary and re-sew as per the original.

For the lines that may have shrunk in length, it may be possible to gain as much as 2–3 inches of line adjustment by utilizing the extra line that is fingertrapped into each line attachment point. Depending on the type of line used on the canopy, the amount of excess line finger-trapped may vary. Dacron lines can have as little as 2–3 inches inserted into the fingertrap and hold securely. The smaller and more slippery Spectra® line is recommended to have at least 6 inches of line inserted into the finger-trap. So, depending on the amount of line that is needed to be gained for the trim adjustment, the rigger may be able to adjust each end of the line to gain the necessary adjustment.

If this needed line can be gained, remove the bar tacks or zigzag at each end of the line and reattach after adjusting the length. Before permanently attaching, the rigger should simply tie the lines in place and check the trim. If everything is within limits, then re-tie or finger-trap and re-stitch with bar tacks or zigzag as per the original.

Remove all extraneous parts from the container, including canopies, handles, toggles, etc.

Inspect the damaged area to determine which repair method is appropriate.

Using the same type and color of thread, sew directly over the original stitching. The amount of overstitch may vary according to location. If the affected area is completely exposed and accessible, overstitch the ends of the damaged area a minimum of 1.25 inches.

Many times the binding tape is worn through due to bridle abrasion or other wear patterns. [Figure A] Rather than remove the panel and rebind it, a practical and cost effective repair is to overlay a section of new binding over the damaged area.

Cut a piece of binding tape a minimum of 1 inch longer than the damaged area. Scissor cut the tape and then lightly sear with the butane lighter. [Figure B] If the tape is cut with a hot knife and then folded, the cut edge cracks at the hot-knifed end. Searing with the lighter results in a more flexible end. Fold the tape in half lengthwise to form a crease. Take a marking pencil and mark the crease. [Figure C]

Overlay the new tape over the damaged area and mark the start of where the new tape begins and covers the damaged area completely. [Figure D]

Overstitch the original tape on the inside row up to the point where the new tape is to start. Leave the needle in the material. Place the folded tape over the damaged area and hold tightly in place. Make sure that the edge is pushed up against the original and the end is against the needle. [Figure E] The next stitch should catch the new tape.

Stitch the new piece and overstitch the end a minimum of 1.25 inches or 3 stitches. Repeat with the outside row of stitches. Repair complete.

Take a piece of adhesive tape and place on the outside of the damaged area to hold the edges together. [Figure F]

Turn the panel inside out, take the glue gun and glue a small piece of Type-3 tape 1 inch longer over the damaged area. [Figure G] Do not fold the ends under. Remove the adhesive tape from the outside.

Stitch around the outer perimeter of the Type-3 tape using matching colored thread to the container fabric. If necessary, increase the upper thread tension so that the outside (bottom) thread shows good tension.

Take the zigzag machine, again with matching color thread, and set the stitch width to its widest setting and 7–11 SPI length. Overstitch the exposed edges of the cut area to draw them together. [Figure H]

Using a hot knife, cut a piece of tape or webbing, such as Type-12, big enough to cover the damaged area.

Lay the patch in place over the damaged area and mark the corners with a marking pencil. [Figure J]

Take a straight pin and transfer the corners of the patch area through to the inside. [Figure K]

If on a main container, take a piece of Type-3 tape big enough to match the outside patch as marked. Cover the inside of the damaged area with the tape.

Pin or glue the tape patch to the inside as marked. Use the single needle to sew around the patch overstitching the ends a minimum of 1 inch.

Take the zigzag machine and stitch the edges of the damaged area together as described in step 4, Hidden Patches. [Figure L] Repair complete.

Duplicate steps 1–5 that was used in the “Overlay Patches” section above but substitute webbing for the inside patch and use container fabric for the outside patch.

Fold the edges of the outside patch under a minimum of .5 inch. Stitch around the perimeter approximately .12 inch from the edge. Run a second row of stitches approximately .25 inch inside and parallel to the first. [Figure M] This gives added strength to the patch and an appearance of a French fell seam patch. Repair complete.

Take the basting tip and pass it through the hole, searing the material. [Figure D] This solidifies the frayed and raw edge of the damaged material.

Set the grommet in the repaired hole. [Figure E]

Identify the nature of the use of the Velcro®. Before you remove the piece, note how it is attached to the container. Some designs are such that several layers of construction have to be reversed to get to the location where the Velcro® was sewn on. If this is the case, the rigger may have to make a very expensive repair to replace a small piece of Velcro®.

Cut the replacement Velcro® to size. Velcro® is normally scissor cut, not cut with a hot knife.

Position the Velcro® and stitch around the perimeter at .12 inch from the edge. For any pieces, 1 inch in width or wider, sew a row of stitching down the center. [Figure A] This prevents the center from being pulled up from the material and loading the outside row of stitching. [Figure B]

Some applications have the Velcro® sewn to a piece of tape for support. Again, if it is 1 inch or more wide, sew down the center to prevent lifting.

Depending on the application, the mating loop piece of Velcro® may be wider than the hook to provide additional protection. That is, the hook may be .75 inch wide and the loop 1 inch wide.

Unpick the stitching that holds the binding tape to the bottom flap. [Figure A] Remove the grommet.

Remove the stitching that holds the stiffener in position. Remove the stiffener.

Use the original stiffener as a template to cut a new stiffener. [Figure B] While many of the older containers use HDPE or other materials, most of the newer designs use MDS nylon because of its superior properties. Because of this, many riggers use MDS exclusively for replacing any stiffeners.

Mark out the outline of the original stiffener on the MDS. Mark the center of the hole for the grommet very precisely.

Use the basting tip to mark the center of the hole for the grommet. Push the tip through the MDS until the shoulder of the tip makes an indentation in the MDS. [Figures C, D, and E] This forms a pilot hole for the drill.

Using heavy shears or tin snips, cut the MDS nylon to shape. Clip the corners to remove the sharp ends and, if the edges are sharp or rough, sand them with sandpaper.

Secure the MDS against a piece of wood and drill a 3⁄8 inch hole. While this hole may seem big for the shank of the grommet, when installed and the material is punched, it will be the right size. A common mistake is to make the hole too small and when the grommet is set, it cracks the plastic.

Insert the stiffener in between the layers of fabric of the bottom flap and let it float inside.

Baste the two layers of fabric together with the single needle.

Restitch the binding to the bottom flap. [Figure F]

Slide the stiffener to the edge of the flap and align the hole in the stiffener with the hole in the fabric. Use an “O” grommet to align the holes. [Figure G]

Stitch the stiffener in place as per the original installation.

Insert the grommet with the correct orientation and set with the grommet set. [Figure H] Make sure that the grommet is set sufficiently so there is no exposed edge to snag the lines or material. Use the feeler gauge to check the gap under the edge of the grommet. [Figure I] It should be no more than .010 inch. If more, hit the set again to tighten the grommet.

Remove all extraneous parts from the harness/ container assembly.

Open the bottom corner of the main container on the appropriate side.

It is necessary to remove the Type-3 binding tape on the inside seam joining the main body to the side flap. Depending on the container construction configuration, there are two options how to do this:

Take the new flap and sew it in place on the main container starting approximately .38 inch from the corner. [Figure C] On this design and others like it, the lower end of the main riser cover is unstitched during removal of the main flap. When sewing the new flap in place, make sure that the side flap is sewn to the main container first and then the riser cover on top of it. Look at the opposite side to see which is on top and duplicate.

If option 1 was used, take the original binding tape, fold over the seam and sew in place with two rows of stitching. Note that there is a second row of stitching sewn directly on top of the inside row of stitching for reinforcement. [Figure D] This is very important.

If option 2 was used, it is necessary to replace the binding tape with new. Stitch down the loose end of the binding tape at the top and then overlap the tape by approximately 2 inches using the double needle machine and tape binder. [Figure E] Overstitch the inside row for reinforcement.

Trim the bottom end of the binding tape at the corner.

Note that the junction of the side flap and riser cover is overstitched and reinforced as needed. [Figure F]

Close the bottom of the container as per the original and reinforce as required.

Mark the location of the corners of the BOC pocket on the container with a marking pencil.

Open the lower right corner of the main container. [Figure A]

Remove the old BOC pocket.

Locate the new BOC pocket on the container at the marks of the old pocket and pin in place with T-pins. [Figure B]

Stitch around the perimeter of the pocket with the single-needle machine. Backstitch at the corners for reinforcing. [Figure C]

Restitch the corner of the main container as per the original configuration.

Inspect the original installation to determine the exact routing of the housings. Some systems have dedicated channels and/or loops through which they are routed. In others, the housings are routed under or over back straps or reserve ripcord housings. If necessary, draw a diagram of the routing or take a picture so that the replacement housings are routed correctly.

Remove any tackings or clamps that hold the housings together and/or to the container. Remove the housings from the system.

Install the replacement housings into their respective locations as per the original installation. Usually the longer housing is installed first and then the shorter one.

Make sure that the flat side of the housing terminal end is orientated outward so that it lays flat against the rear of the main riser when the 3-ring release is assembled correctly. [Figure A]

Align the handle end of the housings and secure as per the original installation. This may be with either a double clamp or hand tacking. [Figure B] Figure C shows a typical method of using supertack to secure the housings together.

If hand tacking is used, it is desirable to cover the tacking with heat shrink tubing. Place a length of tubing over the housing ends and shrink using the heat gun. [Figure D]

Secure the double housing to the container/back pad or pocket assembly. Depending on the manufacturer, it may be necessary to provide a certain amount of “float” to the housings in order that the loop of the riser is not loaded or under tension when the main canopy is deployed. If available, consult the owner’s manual for correct positioning and tacking. Some systems use a double clamp to secure the housings together, as well as to the container or pockets. If these are used, inspect the clamp to make sure that it was not damaged when removing the housings and can be reused. Crimp the housings, making sure that the clamp is tight so the housings cannot work loose. [Figure E]

Route the release cables through the housings to make sure there are no obstructions.

Inspection, damage identification, and repair planning

Teardown and cleanup

Preparation and reconstruction

Quality control inspection and recordkeeping

Examine the chest strap/MLW junction to determine if the backpad needs to be removed from the harness to access the junction. If so, remove the pad from the harness to allow access to the junction. [Figure A]

Many harnesses have the reserve ripcord housing located on the left side. The housing needs to be disconnected at this location. It is usually secured to a loop located at the chest strap junction. During the replacement process, this loop is removed and may be reused if in good condition.

Remove the harness stitching and any other stitching from the junction making sure not to damage the main lift web. [Figure B]

Remove the old chest strap webbing from the main lift web. Pay particular attention to the end of the webbing. While most chest straps are installed at right angles to the main lift web, some have an angle cut at the end for better fit. If the webbing has an angle, make sure to duplicate it.

Clean the junction area of old thread, as well as any glue residue on the inside of the main lift web.

Take the marking pencil and mark the points of the stitch pattern for the reassembly. [Figure C] Most chest straps are installed with a 3-point WW in a horizontal orientation, but the rigger should duplicate the original design.

If the procedure is a replacement of a damaged chest strap, then it should be replaced to the original length. If so, then remove the rolled stop end so that the finished length may be determined. If the chest strap is to be lengthened, then an appropriate length of webbing needs to be determined. The finished length should be measured from the outside of the main lift web plus 3.50 inches. [Figure D]

Cut a piece of webbing to the appropriate length. If needed, cut the MLW end of the strap at an angle. [Figure E]

Insert the end of the webbing into the MLW junction. Align the end of the chest strap with the outside edge of the MLW. Insert the housing loop back into the junction as well. Lightly glue the MLW to the chest strap. [Figure F] Do not use too much glue.

Some harnesses are pre-sewn along the edges with a medium duty machine and E thread. If so, duplicate this.

Using the harness machine and 5-cord nylon thread, sew the junction as marked with the original pattern. [Figure G]

Mark the length of the chest strap to include enough needed for the stop end. If the chest strap is to be configured for a thread-thru adapter, an additional 3.50 inches is needed for the roll back.

After determining the cut length, place a mark at 3.50 inches on the BACK side of the chest strap. Fold to this mark and then fold the webbing one more time for three layers. [Figures H and I]

Using the zigzag machine, sew across the center of the stop end fold. This results in a loose fold that jams against the adapter in the event of slippage of the chest strap. [Figure J]

If the MLW was attached to the backpad assembly, reattach as per the original configuration. If the backpad is attached in such a manner that does not allow inspection of the back side of the MLW, inspect the stitching at this time before reattaching the backpad.

Reinstall the ripcord housing and secure.

If the leg strap is of the thread-thru configuration, unthread the webbing from the leg adapter. If the leg strap has an adjustable “V” ring used in conjunction with a snap, disconnect the “V” ring from the snap. Lay the leg strap out flat.

Remove the harness stitching from the rolled end of the webbing.

Measure the required distance from the end of the strap that is required for shortening and mark accordingly. [Figure A]

Trim the webbing at the mark using the hot knife.

For the thread-thru configuration, place a mark at 3.50 inches from the end of the webbing on the bottom of the webbing. [Figure B] This is the “fold to” mark for the first fold of the webbing. Fold one more time for a total of three layers of webbing. [Figure C]

Sew the rolled stop end according to Figure D with the harness machine.

For the “V” ring configuration, place a mark at 2 inches from the top end of the webbing. This is also the “fold to” mark for the first fold. Make two additional folds for a total of four layers.

Sew the rolled stop end according to Figure E with the harness machine.

Depending on the configuration, it may be necessary to remove the ripcord housing from its attachment point on the harness for access to the pocket. If the harness is attached to the backpad, disconnect this as well.

Remove the E thread stitch pattern that forms the pocket on the MLW. [Figure A]

Mark the ends of the old Velcro® and remove from the inside of the webbing. Note which side of the webbing the hook and loop are located.

Cut the replacement Velcro® to the correct length.

Glue the Velcro® pieces to their respective locations on the inside of the webbing.

Using the single needle machine, sew around the perimeter of the Velcro®, as well as a row of stitching down the center. [Figure B] Repeat for the opposite side.

Re-sew the pocket with two rows of single needle stitching with E thread. [Figure C]

Reattach the harness to the backpad.

Reinstall the ripcord housing to the harness.

Remove the leg pad assembly.

Remove the leg strap by cutting the webbing.

Use Figure A to cut a replacement leg strap and parts.

Take the Ty-8 webbing and sew a bowtie fold with the Ty-4 tape buffer at the 3.50 inch mark. [Figure B]

Turn the adapter upside down and install the Ty-8 webbing as shown and glue in place. [Figure C]

Install the bowtie around the ring and glue in place. [Figure D] The picture shows the inside orientation of the harness.

Double check the correct orientation of the hardware. [Figure E]

Mark the stitch pattern. [Figure F]

Sew the webbing with the harness machine in a 4-point W-W pattern [Figure G]

Reinstall the leg pad. Route the upper pad flap through the adapter from the bottom and zigzag. [Figure H]

Fold the bottom pad under and zigzag in place. [Figure I] Note that the ends of the upper and lower pads are offset to reduce the thickness to be sewn.

Remove all housings, leg pads, and any other parts that may interfere with the work from the harness.

Disassemble the junction of the diagonal back strap and main lift web at the 3-ring attachment point. [Figure C] Be very careful not to damage the diagonal back strap. If it is damaged, it is a major project to replace this on most assemblies.

Lay out the main lift web assembly and check the measurements against the initial dimensions. Check against the opposite side MLW for symmetry.

If this side of the harness has a TSO or identification label attached, carefully remove it for use on the new assembly. If it is damaged, it may be necessary to get a new label to replace it. Contact the manufacturer for guidance. They may require the rigger to return the old label in exchange for a new one.

Note that this configuration consists primarily of two main pieces of webbing. The front MLW is Type-7 webbing and the rear is Type-8.

Measure the new webbing for the main lift webs. Add 5 inches for the riser end fold back and allow at least 6 inches extra for shrinkage. While this may sound like a lot, nothing is more discouraging than to get to the end of the project and find that the webbing is short by an inch or two. A couple inches of scrap is a small price to pay at this point.

Starting at one end of the webbing, measure the riser end configuration. Fold back and glue in place. If there is a toggle stow loop on the old harness, do not forget to glue in place before sewing. [Figure D] Mark the 4 point W-W pattern and sew with the harness machine and 5-cord nylon thread.

Install the steering line guide ring with a duplicate stitch pattern as per the original. [Figure E] In some instances, the manufacturer may have used a special bar tack or other stitch pattern to attach the ring. If the rigger does not have the same machine, it is necessary to contact the manufacturer for an acceptable alternative. This should have been identified in phase one. Check the distance from the end of the riser to the top of the ring. The industry standard is 4 inches, but there may be special dimensions for some applications.

Install the toggle Velcro® keepers as per the original. [Figure F] Complete any other sewing needed, such as the end of the toggle stow loop.

If needed, reattach the TSO label at the appropriate location. If the label is the original one and is made from material such as Ty-vek®, try to follow the original needle holes to avoid perforating the material. Too many holes cause the label to tear out.

Working from the measurement diagram in Figure A, mark the location of the 3-ring.

Working downward mark the location of the chest strap, the ripcord pocket, and the bottom of the upper leg strap. [Figure G]

The harness stitching at the 3-ring.

The harness stitching at the chest strap.

The ripcord pocket.

The harness stitching at the leg strap junction.

Sew the Velcro® in place for the ripcord pocket. [Figure H]

Glue the chest strap in place. In this instance, do not forget the housing loop.

Using the single needle, pre-sew the front and rear main lift webs. Use of the sewing pattern in Figure I accomplishes this and at the same time creates the ripcord pocket. Sew the chest strap 3-point W-W with the harness machine. [Figure J]

Reassemble the upper diagonal back strap and the 3-ring hardware by threading the rear riser through the large ring followed by the front riser.

Position the 3-ring at the mark on the main lift web and glue in place. Install the Type-12 confluence wrap below the 3-ring and mark the 4-point W-W pattern. [Figure K]

Sew the confluence wrap with the harness machine. [Figure L]

Re-create the leg junction. Glue the upper leg strap in place first and then the horizontal back strap second. [Figure M]

Mark the 4-point W-W and then sew with the harness machine. Start the stitch pattern at the front side of the MLW and complete with the overstitch the full length of the pattern. [Figure N] This provides additional reinforcing at the upper leg strap/MLW location.

Measure the length of the lower leg strap allowing 3.50 inches for the rolled stop end. Trim to length and then install the stop end with the harness machine.

Reattach the backpad to the upper MLW using the 308 zigzag machine.

Reinstall the leg pads using the 308 zigzag machine.

Reinstall the ripcord and 3-ring housings and hand tack in place.

Cut a new loop the length of the old one plus 2 inches.

Fold the new loop in half and lay alongside the old loop. Transfer the marks from the old loop to the new one. [Figure B]

Align the marks on the loop with the mark at the bottom of the confluence wrap on the riser. [Figure C] Glue the loop in place.

Sew the loop with the 308 zigzag machine. [Figure D] Set the stitch width at approximately 1⁄8 inch and 10 SPI.

Trim the excess loop off at the top. [Figure E]

Reinstall the confluence wrap using the harness machine. [Figure F]

Mark the location of the old Velcro®. [Figure A]

Remove the old Velcro®.

Cut a new piece(s) of Velcro® to match the original.

Position the Velcro® to the original location.

Sew the hook Velcro® with a single-needle machine.

Position the loop line stow Velcro® to match the hook and sew along the edge, overstitching the ends. [Figure C]

Metal ripcords usually are not repairable and must be replaced when they are damaged.

Reserve pilot chutes experience torn mesh, minor canopy damage, broken hand tackings, and damaged grommets in the cap.

Remove the hand tackings used to secure the base of the pilot chute to the spring. [Figure B]

Turn the pilot chute upside down and push the canopy down until the grommet is exposed. [Figure C]

Using diagonal cutters, remove the damaged grommet being careful not to damage the fabric of the cap. [Figure D]

Using the handset, set a new grommet. Be careful not to catch any fabric during the process. [Figure E]

Reposition the canopy over the spring. Grasp the skirt at the bottom end of the spring. Make sure that the radial tapes run directly from the bottom to the cap in a straight line. [Figure F] If the tapes “barberpole” around the spring, the pilot chute may not inflate properly on launch.

Hand tack the bottom of the canopy to the bottom of the spring. [Figure G]

Remove the tackings used to secure the base of the pilot chute to the spring.

For small holes, turn the mesh inside out and zigzag the edges together.

Reattach the bottom of the pilot chute to the spring with hand tacking.

Remove the grommets from the tongue. [Figure B]

Remove the binding from the tongue area by unpicking the stitching. [Figure C]

Cut two pieces of 1½ inch Type-3 tape and overlay them on each side of the damaged area. Sew around the edges of the tape and down the center to secure it. [Figure D]

Trim the ends of the tape to match the shape of the tongue.

Using the single needle machine, reapply the binding tape around the edge of the tongue. [Figure E]

Punch new holes over the exact position as the original ones. [Figure F]

Insert new grommets. [Figure G]

Working through the hole in the base, turn the pilot chute inside out. Unpick the seam at the junction of the canopy and mesh and between two of the radial tapes. [Figure B] This allows good access to the apex area.

Take a piece of ¾ inch Type-3 tape and overlay the reinforcing material at the apex, covering the damaged area. [Figure C]

Re-sew the canopy and mesh panels as per the original. Turn the pilot chute right side out.

Remove the old bridle from the pilot chute. [Figure A]

Thread the loop ends of the bridle through the bottom support tapes of the pilot chute. [Figure B]

Glue the ends in place with the glue gun. [Figure C]

Bar tack the bridle along the sides. Do not capture the centerline. [Figure D]

Align the bridle tapes on the center of the pilot chute attachment tapes and bar tack in place. [Figure E]

Check the trim of the pilot chute centerline. When the centerline is taut, the apex should be even with or no more than 1 inch below the skirt of the canopy.

Anchor the bag end of the pilot chute at the bag stop. Grasp the Spectra® centerline and pull to “cock” the bridle.

Route the free end of the Spectra® centerline up through the center of the pilot chute and through the loop of the pilot chute centerline at the apex. Grasp the handle of the pilot chute and apply tension so that the centerline of the pilot chute and the bridle are equal. Pinch the Spectra® line so that the location will not move. Secure with 2 half hitches. [Figure F]

Change the anchor point to the end of the bridle. Stretch the bridle so that the pilot chute is collapsed. Lay the pilot chute out with the mesh exposed and secure the radial tapes with the pony clamp at the mesh/fabric seam. [Figure G] Pull moderate tension on the pony clamp and check the location of the apex of the pilot chute at the opening of the bridle.

Again anchor the bridle at the bag stop and cock the bridle. Check the position of the apex of the pilot chute. It should be within 1 inch of the skirt. [Figure H]

Finger-trap the running end of the Spectra® centerline for a distance of 3 inches. [Figure I] Bar tack or zigzag to secure. Trim the excess line.

Cock the bridle. Take the hemostats and grasp the Spectra® centerline at the eye of the bridle. [Figure J]

Pull the centerline out to expose approximately 3 inches each side of the hemostats. Take the green felt tip marker and place a mark at the hemostat location and 1 inch either side. [Figure K] Color the line between the marks and on both sides. [Figure L]

Pull the bridle tight to reposition the centerline and check the green color of the eye. [Figure M]

Remove grommets from the tongue of the bag.

Unpick the binding along the edge of the grommet reinforcing tape. [Figure A]

Overlay a piece of 1.5 inch Type-4 tape on the top of the bag tongue and sew down. [Figure B]

Punch new holes through the Type-4 from the back side in the same location as the original location.

Overlay the back side of the tongue with a piece of 1.5 inch Type-3 tape and sew down. [Figure C] Punch new holes through the tape.

Sew down the binding tape and rebind as needed. [Figure D]

Set new grommets in the original locations. [Figure E]

A clear description of the alteration

Technical information that includes drawings and photographs, materials used, stitch patterns, and location of altered components

A means of identifying the altered parachute, such as model and serial number, and identification of the person having performed the alteration

Measure the MLW to check if the harness is even.

Remove the ripcord pocket/MLW cover. [Figure A]

Measure the lower MLW. [Figure B]

Remove the lower MLW. [Figure C]

Measure the webbing for the lower main lift web. [Figure D]

Zigzag the bowtie folds as marked including the Type-4 buffers. [Figure E]

Glue the MLW in place. Make sure that the open end of the webbing is on the rear and oriented up towards the chest strap.

Mark the stitch pattern on the MLW and sew with the harness machine. Use a 3 inch W-W pattern at the top as shown in Figure F. Include a box pattern on the lower section of the MLW.

Reattach the ripcord pocket/MLW cover. [Figure G]

Measure the amount that the pad is to be shortened and mark on the sleeve of the pad. [Figure A]

Remove all bar tacks or zigzag stitching from the binding.

Using the hot knife, remove the binding from the pad. [Figure B]

Unpick the sleeve from the body of the pad. Fold the pad under and using the hot knife, shorten the sleeve by the required amount.

Measure the pad and mark. Trim with the hot knife. [Figure C]

Using the double needle machine and binder, bind the end of the sleeve. [Figure D]

Sew the sleeve to the pad and pre-sew the foam with the single needle.

Trim the ends of the tape.

Rebind the pad starting at the upper corner. [Figure E] Make sure the inside curve of the pad is fully captured by the binding.

Bar tack at the original locations. [Figure F]

Mark the center of the container wall at the bottom. [Figure B]

Mark the center of the Spandex® portion of the CYPRES® pocket. [Figure C] Do not mark the center of the entire pocket. The Spandex® must be centered on the wall to allow for the correct positioning of the CYPRES® processing unit.

Align the marks and the pocket as close to the bottom of the wall as possible. [Figure D]

Sew around the pocket with the single needle machine. Backstitch .5 inch at each of the corners for reinforcing.

Next, install or create a cable channel for the control cable. Some systems, such as the one shown in Figure F, can be modified to provide the channel.

Mark the bottom and top of the pack tray cover as shown. [Figure E] Place a hand tack at the A position. Unpick the stitching between the corner bar tack and the hand tack at the A position. Also, unpick the stitching between the B bar tacks.

There is now a built-in channel to slide the control cable thru and stow the excess cable as well. [Figure F]

Measure the distance along the long axis of the reserve container from the bottom of the pocket location to the top of the container near the planned location for the control unit. [Figure G]

Cut a piece of the adhesive backed channel to the same length. Remove the adhesive covering and position the channel in place. Roll the channel with the wallpaper roller to secure the adhesive.

Locate the position for the control pocket. Unpick the stitching that holds the main container to the backpad. [Figure H]

Insert the pocket with the mouth towards the channel opening and restitch the container to the backpad. [Figure I] Make sure the control head fits into the pocket.

Lay the CYPRES® unit on the pocket and route the cutter/cable assembly out the top of the pocket and in as direct a line to the side flap as possible. It is necessary to cut a hole in the bottom launching flap to access the side flap.

Where the cable passes through the bottom launching flap as close to the wall as possible, place a line approximately .5 inch long. [Figure J] Take the hot knife and cut a single slit the length of the mark. DO NOT CUT ANY OTHER MATERIAL.

Route the cable through the slit and then along the side flap as shown. [Figure K]

Place marks along the binding showing the start and finish locations for the cable channel. Again, the rigger can use the adhesive backed channel or make a channel out of the Spandex® material as shown. [Figure L]

Route the cutter thru the channel and out the end nearest the side flap grommet.

Slide the cutter elastic over the cutter and position the cutter over the grommet with the hole to the outside of the grommet and the elastic facing inwards on the flap. Mark the corners of the cutter as shown. [Figure M]

Remove the CYPRES® from the container completely. Position the elastic sleeve to the marks and sew in place with the zigzag machine. [Figure N]

Re-close the corner of the reserve container as per the original.

Measure the length of the original loop. If the stop knot is too tight to untie, allow extra length (you can always cut it down, but you cannot glue it back on).

Cut an appropriate length of material and hot knife one end on an angle.

Fold the line in half and mark the center. [Figure A]

Place a mark at 1 inch from the center on the hot knifed end.

Take the finger-trapping fid and screw it onto the hot knifed end. [Figure B]

Insert the pointed end of the fid into the line at the farthest mark by separating the weave of the material so that the fid then passes through the length of the braided line and out the scissor cut end. [Figure C]

Draw the line through until the two marks are aligned. This results in a loop eye of approximately .5 inch. [Figure D]

Pinch the eye of the loop with one hand and smooth the material from the eye to the end. Hot knife the running end.

For short loops used with a main container, simply tie an overhand knot in the loop for the required length. A metal washer is used to keep the loop from pulling through the grommet. [Figure E]

If the loop is to be used with a reserve container, it may be required to sew the finger-trapped part of the loop for security. If this is the case, simply sew the length of the finger-trapped portion of the loop with a single-needle machine before hot knifing the end. Start at the running end and sew towards the eye of the loop. Stop sewing approximately .12 inch from the eye and then backstitch a minimum of 1 inch. [Figure F] Trim the end with the hot knife.

Measure and mark the line according to Figure G. Cut both ends with the scissors.

Using the finger-trapping wire, finger-trap one end to form the loop and have the running end exit approximately 1 inch past the center mark. [Figure H]

Repeat with the opposite end. Exit again past the center so that the two lines overlap at the center. [Figure I]

Pull the loop tight to remove any slack.

Bar tack or zigzag the loop ends. [Figure J]

Trim the running ends. [Figure K]

Bar tack or zigzag the center overlap junction. [Figure L]

Measure the finished loop.

Measure the container according to Figure A or measure an existing bag according to Figure B.

Transfer these dimensions to Figure C.

Lay out bag pattern on the para-pak according to Figure C.

Cut para-pak and all required tapes and webbings.

Fold Type-12 to center and sew to the inside of the bag fabric at the top grommet location. [Figure D]

Sew 1½ inch Type-4 tape at the outside tongue location. [Figure E]

Sew 1 inch Type-4 tape at the outside mouth location. At the same time, sew down the two side stow band tapes and the three mouth stow band tapes. [Figure F]

Bind the mouth of the bag with the double needle binding machine. Leave the tapes long at the ends.

With the bag inside out, match the edge of the mouth with the alignment marks on the tongue. [Figure G] Sew along edges to form bag.

Trim the excess tapes at the edge of the bag.

Starting at the inside corner of the bag, bind the inside seam. [Figure H]

Trim the inside ends of the binding leaving a 2 inch tail. [Figure I] Double the tail back and bar tack.

Bar tack the stow loops at the appropriate locations. [Figure J]

Install a #5 grommet at the top center of the bag. Orient the grommet from the inside with the washer on the outside. [Figure K]

Install the three #3 grommets in the tongue of the bag with the grommets from the outside and the washers on the inside. [Figure L]

Draw the shape of the BOC pocket on the para-pak fabric to the size required to fit the pilot chute. This will be the base panel.

Fold the Spandex® fabric in half and cut to the same size as the base panel. This will be the pocket panel. Make sure the grain of the fabric is parallel with the length of the pocket for stretch. Trim ½ inch off the end opposite the fold. [Figure A]

Open the sides of the pocket at the folded end and insert the length of elastic tape. Sew the tape in place with the single needle on both sides.

Mark the center of the mouth and bar tack the elastic reinforcing as shown. [Figure B]

Lay the pocket on the para-pak base and sew in place. [Figure C] (Sewing with the Spandex® on the bottom and the para-pak on top minimizes stretch from the presser foot.)

Bind the pocket, starting at the bottom corner opposite the mouth of the pocket. [Figure D]

Bar tack the mouth of the pocket securing the elastic reinforcing on both sides. [Figure E]

The pocket is now complete and ready for installation.

Take the needle and supertack and pass it through the reinforcing tape at the bottom of the pilot chute mesh capturing the spring coil. [Figure A]

Cross over the radial seam reinforcing tape and again pass the needle through the reinforcing tape and capturing the spring coil as before. [Figure B]

Secure the ends of the supertack with a surgeon’s knot and locking knot. [Figure C] Trim to a ¾ inch tail.

Position the housing end flush with the end of the housing channel.

Take the needle and supertack and tie an overhand knot approximately 1 inch from the end.

Pass the needle through the inside of the housing channel and then around the outside below the housing end. [Figure D] The purpose is to choke the end of the channel so that the housing does not protrude from the end.

Next take the needle and pass it through the top of the channel fabric over the housing. [Figure E]

Take the needle and locate the grooves in the housing. [Figure F] Make three loops through the channel, trapping the supertack in the grooves. [Figure G]

Secure the running end with a surgeon’s knot and locking knot.

Twist the supertack together and trim with a ¾ inch tail.

Take the needle and doubled supertack and pass it through the leg pad from the bottom next to the edge of the leg snap. [Figure H]

Pass the supertack over the bar of the snap and down through the pad. [Figure I]

Continue with two more turns over the bar keeping the tackings next to each other. [Figure J]

Secure the two ends on the bottom of the pad with a surgeon’s knot and locking knot. [Figure K]

Twist the ends together and trim to a ¾ inch tail.

Remove all canopies, AADs, and component parts, such as toggles, RSL, ripcords, bags, and elastic keepers, as well as the packing data card.

Soak the rig in lukewarm water. Apply straight Woolite® or soap onto the dirtiest areas and scrub with the brush. Soak in lukewarm water for 20 minutes.

Scrub the rig vigorously all over. Soak for another 20 minutes.

Continue scrubbing vigorously and soak for another 20 minutes. For particularly dirty rigs, empty the first batch of soapy water and wash in a fresh batch of soapy water.

Squeeze out as much soapy water as possible. Immerse in fresh, clean, cool water and rinse several times until no further soap comes out.

Hang to dry out of direct sunlight. The use of a fan directly onto the rig will greatly speed up the drying process.

Wrap the hardware of the rig with the rags to pad them so they do not beat the inside of the machine.

Soak the rig in lukewarm water and apply Woolite® or other soap directly onto the dirtiest parts. Scrub these parts vigorously. Allow these parts to absorb the Woolite® during the time traveling to the Laundromat.

Place the rig into the pillowcase or laundry bag and add extra padding, such as extra laundry. Levi’s® work exceptionally well for this. Tie off the pillowcase or bag to hold everything in. Place in the washing machine adding more washing soap and Woolite® and wash in warm water.

Run through at least two rinse cycles or hand rinse several times until no soap comes out.

Hang to dry out of direct sunlight. The use of a fan onto the rig will greatly speed up the drying process.